How to Choose Your First Piano: A Complete Buyer's Guide

How to Choose Your First Piano: A Complete Buyer

Choosing a first piano often feels like walking into a maze without a map. Between the hundreds of brands, the debate over new versus secondhand, and the sheer variance in pricing, it is easy to feel paralyzed before you even play a note.

We have spent the last two decades guiding families through this exact process, and we have learned that the “perfect” piano is usually just the one that fits your specific life right now. Our team has distilled this journey down to the few practical decisions that actually impact your playing experience.

This guide helps you prioritize what matters, ignore the marketing noise, and find an instrument that brings music into your home for years.

Start with Space, Not Budget

Most buyers look at price tags first, but your available floor space is the real dictator of what you can own. A piano that physically overwhelms a room will often acoustically overwhelm it too, making practice unpleasant.

The Vertical Reality (Uprights)

Upright pianos are the standard for most British homes because they sit flush against a wall. While heights vary, the “footprint” on your floor is surprisingly consistent.

• Width: almost all uprights fall between 148cm and 155cm.
• Depth: typically 60cm to 65cm.
• Height: this is the variable. Compact “studio” models start around 108cm, while pro-level uprights stand 130cm or taller.

We always tell clients that taller is generally better for tone. Longer strings in a 130cm cabinet produce a richer, more resonant bass that smaller consoles simply cannot match physically.

The Grand Commitment

Grand pianos require significantly more real estate than just their physical dimensions. You need to account for the bench and the “throw” of the lid.

• Minimum Room Size: We recommend a room of at least 4m x 4m (approx 16 sq meters) for a baby grand to sound balanced.
• Length: A “baby” grand is typically 150cm to 168cm long.
• The Player’s Space: You need an additional 100cm of depth behind the keyboard for the bench and pianist to move comfortably.

New vs Secondhand: What’s Right for You?

This choice is the biggest fork in the road for most buyers. Both paths have distinct advantages depending on your risk tolerance and budget.

The Case for New

Buying a new piano removes the guesswork. You get a pristine instrument with zero wear on the mechanical parts.

• Warranty: Major brands like Yamaha and Kawai now offer 5 to 10-year transferable warranties.
• Stability: New wood and felts are fresh, meaning the action (the key mechanism) is tight and consistent.
• Predictability: You know exactly what you are getting, with no hidden history of flood damage or poor maintenance.

The Case for Pre-Owned

Pre-owned pianos often allow you to jump up a “quality tier” for the same money.

• Depreciation: Like cars, new pianos lose value the moment they leave the showroom. A used piano has already taken that hit.
• Tone: Older, high-quality pianos (especially European makes) often have a “warmer” character that some modern mass-produced instruments lack.
• Value: A reconditioned professional upright (like a Yamaha U1) can often be bought for the same price as a brand-new entry-level model.

Feature	New Piano	Reconditioned / Secondhand
Warranty	5-10 Years (Manufacturer)	1-5 Years (Dealer Dependent)
Maintenance	Low initially	Variable; may need regulation
Depreciation	Immediate drop	Stable value

The Touch Test: Why Playing Matters

Specifications on a website cannot tell you how a keyboard connects with your fingers. You must sit down and physically play the instrument to understand its personality.

When you visit a showroom, focus on these three tactile elements:

1. Weighting (Downweight) Standard acoustic piano keys require about 50 to 55 grams of pressure to go down.

• Too Light: Keys that flop down with zero resistance make it hard to develop finger strength.
• Too Heavy: An action that fights you will cause fatigue and tension in a beginner’s wrists.

2. Responsiveness Play a key rapidly and repeatedly. Does the hammer reset fast enough for you to play the note again instantly? A sluggish action will “miss” notes when you play fast trills or repeated chords.

3. The Decay Play a chord, hold the pedal down, and listen. Does the sound sustain and sing, or does it die away immediately? A longer “decay” usually indicates a higher-quality soundboard.

Budget Guidelines (2026 UK Market)

Prices have shifted in recent years, so it is important to have realistic expectations for what your money buys in the current market.

£1,500 - £3,000: The Starter Zone This budget typically gets you a reliable, older British upright (like a Knight or Welmar) or a newer entry-level used model.

• Top Pick: Look for a well-maintained, used Yamaha B1 or a compact Kawai.

£3,000 - £5,000: The Sweet Spot Here you have a choice between brand new entry-level pianos or older professional-grade instruments.

• New: You can buy a factory-fresh Yamaha B1 (approx £3,200) or Kawai K-15.
• Used: This is the starting range for a reconditioned Yamaha U1 (from the 1970s/80s), which is a significant step up in tone quality.

£5,000 - £8,000: The Serious Student This bracket opens up mid-range new pianos with longer strings and superior actions.

• New: Models like the Kawai K-300 (approx £4,700+) or Yamaha B3 dominate here.
• Used: You can find younger, high-spec reconditioned uprights or very old “project” baby grands (proceed with caution on the grands).

£8,000+: The Lifetime Investment At this level, you are looking at premium new uprights or entry-level grands.

• Reality Check: A quality new baby grand usually starts near £10,000. Anything cheaper often sacrifices essential build quality.

Questions to Ask Before You Buy

A glossy exterior can hide serious mechanical issues. We recommend asking these specific questions to uncover the true condition of any used instrument.

“Has this piano been acclimated to a UK home environment?” Pianos imported directly from humid climates (like parts of Asia) can suffer from loose tuning pins if not properly seasoned for drier British homes.

“When was it last tuned?” If a seller says “it just needs a tune,” be careful. A piano that has gone years without tuning may need a costly “pitch raise” or may no longer hold its tune at all due to a loose pinblock.

“What work has been done to the action?” Ask if the “loop cords” or damper springs have been replaced. On older pianos, these small silk or felt parts become brittle and snap, requiring a fiddly and expensive repair.

“Who handles the delivery?” Never let standard furniture movers touch a piano. You need specialist piano movers who understand how to balance the weight and protect your floors.

The Humidity Factor

One detail often overlooked by first-time buyers is the environment. Pianos are made of wood, felt, and metal—all of which react to moisture.

The Golden Rule: Keep your room humidity between 40% and 60%.

• Central Heating Risk: British winters often drop indoor humidity below 30%, which can crack soundboards.
• The Fix: We suggest buying a simple digital hygrometer (about £10 online) to monitor the room. If it gets too dry, a humidifier or a “dampp-chaser” system installed inside the piano can save you thousands in repairs.

Final Thoughts

Buying a piano is a commitment, but it is also one of the most rewarding purchases you will ever make. The goal is not to find the most expensive instrument, but to find one that invites you to sit down and play every single day.

Take your time. Trust your fingers. If an instrument sounds harsh to you, it doesn’t matter what the brand name says—it isn’t the right one.

If you would like to explore these differences in person, book a viewing at our Harrogate showroom. We’ll make tea, answer your questions, and give you the space to find your perfect match.